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Click on the title or Scroll down for great training articles on:
Littermates
–Don’t be Tempted To Keep Two
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Jumping Up
By Marlene Stachowiak
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The
"jumping" subject keeps popping up with at least two
paws on the owner. As soon as the dog is brought home it is...
BONG... BONGING off your chest or the mother-in-law's dress.
There are no limits to the creative jumping that the new dog
or pup will attempt in order to achieve the joy of getting
your attention! That is why soooo many articles have been
written on this subject! We all know there is no "magic
wand" in dog training. I have seen "wands"
being carried to dog trials but they are not for the purposes
of stopping unwanted jumping!
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Dogs do
not get up in the morning and say they are going to drive you crazy.
Spouses might do that, but not the pure soul of a dog! Dogs do
not make moral judgments. They do not understand the concept
of what is good and what is bad. Dogs only do
what is satisfying and stop doing what is unsatisfying.
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To a dog,
you do not live at your shoe level, you live in your face and
hands. There are several reasons why dogs will jump on people.
I am going to deal here with jumping for attention or a
"greeting."
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The
problem is how to teach the dog not to jump without losing the
dog’s trust in the owner or physically endangering the dog
or the trust. In years past, several methods seemed to
dominate the conventional “wisdom.” One was a hard knee
into the dog’s chest. Imagine the dog, running with great
joy and trust, he jumps up, placing his “welcome” flat dab
onto his human’s abdomen, only to have the human knock the
air out of the dog. What happens to the trust? It flies out
the window! In rare documented cases, the chest was crushed or
the dog died from too hard a blow directly over the heart.
Another method that some claimed to work wonders was the old
“step on the back toes” method. I never could figure out
how a person of my stature (5’2”) could manage such a
coordinated maneuver: holding the front paws of even a
medium-sized dog while extending one’s leg at least three
inches farther than one’s leg can reach and simultaneously
putting enough pressure on the back toes of a dog to convince
him to stop jumping…? Of course, the pressure has to be
measured carefully so that the handler does not fall over or
damage the toes of this trusting dog!
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There has
got to be a better way to instruct our clients to teach their
dogs not to do unwanted jumping. There must be methods that
are easy for the novice to understand, with which even the
poorly coordinated or weak individual can succeed in a short
period of time. Popping the leash and saying “OFF!”
won’t work for many people and their dogs. The timing has to
be just right – it is usually too late by the time the
handler says “Off!” and the dog gets the satisfaction of
successfully jumping on someone. Besides, the dog does not
learn to take on the responsibility of not jumping. Some dogs
will depend on the vocal command of “Off!” and that gets
tiresome!
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No, there
is a better, quicker, cleaner way to convince the dog to stop
unwanted jumping.
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So,
let’s get on with it! The first step is to teach the dog to
release any pressure he initiates on the leash. With the dog
on a leash do not give any commands. When the dog starts to
pull the leash, jerk the leash only hard enough to get the
dog’s attention. The jerk should not move the dog’s body.
Think of it as tapping on someone’s shoulder to get that
person’s attention – not a shove. The jerk is not stopped
and started again. That cycle could continue forever! What one
should do is keep popping the leash until the dog moves back
enough to release the pressure the dog had put on the leash.
As soon as the dog moves back, the handler starts praising.
The dog may come to the handler but most will then head out in
a new direction to see if the “doggy-god” gets them again.
A buckle collar, in my opinion, requires too much pressure to
get the dog’s attention in the beginning. Later, the dog
certainly may use a buckle-type collar. Keep in mind that the
dog does not breathe out of the back of his neck. A collar
that gives a more even distribution of pressure would be my
preference. Most dogs learn that it is their responsibility to
release any pressure of the collar themselves within a few
tries. Dogs that are not taught this simple lesson must think
they are going for a hanging instead of for a pleasant walk.
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Now the
dog has learned that it can relieve any pressure of the collar
by it’s own action, it can take on that responsibility. We
can then proceed to stop the unwanted jumping! As the handler
is moving up to talk to someone, at the reception desk in the
vet’s office or opening the door or gate to allow company
in, the dog will soon learn not to jump “at” or “on.”
With the “handle” of the leash in one hand, step with two
feet on the leash in such a way that there is room for the dog
to only stand without pressure on the collar. If only enough
leash for the dog to stand is allowed, it will not be enough
to twist around the handler’s legs. If both feet are on the
leash even if the dog does twist around the legs, there is an
escape route. The handler does not give any commands. We hope
the dog will try to jump. Since he has learned to release the
pressure, he will either stop jumping and stand in such a way
that the collar will not be tight or, like most dogs, he will
go into a sit without a command – without even formally
having learned to sit on command. Then the handler praises the
dog. If the dog “teaches itself” not to jump, there will
be more consistent behavior, quicker. It’s sort of like
telling teenagers to do something – better if the think they
chose the desired behavior on their own.
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Hang the
leash on a door knob and, when company comes, snap the leash
on the dog. The company is not to pet the dog until it stops
jumping. If the dog starts jumping again during the petting,
the “petter” must step away until the dog figures out how
to get that person to pet him again, which is to stop jumping
or go into a sit.
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Dogs that
have been taken into heavy human traffic areas at parks and on
neighborhood walks have learned within a week’s time to
stand still or sit when they want to be petted. It is a thrill
to me to see a wiggly butt and wagging tail in a self-imposed
control position, requesting petting! Eventually, this skill
will transfer to off leash. By the time control is expected
off leash, the handler will have many more skills and commands
that may be used. One must allow time for the “short-term
memory” to transfer into “long-term memory.”
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How about
a “quicky” fix? Teach the dog to jump and touch the flat
palm of your out-stretched hand. Start with a really good
treat between your fingers. Hold it just above the dog’s
nose so he has to stretch to get the treat, on the command
“Touch.” Eventually, the hand is held higher for a high
jump. The next step is to have the palm parallel to the ground
and high about the dog’s head. The dog jump and touches the
palm on command and the other hand gives the treat. Soon, all
you need to do is to hold your hand out away from your body
and the dog will not jump on you. This is a great stress
release for many dogs in the obedience ring. Of course, no
treat in the ring! The dog will learn to jump for the pure joy
of it.
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My own
dogs are allowed to jump on me when we play. They first had to
learn “off” before they were given the privilege of
jumping “on.” Yes, they drive me a bit nuts jumping into
the air all around me when I come home. They look like trout
going upstream! At least as much like trout as a Boxer, two
Greyhounds, a Miniature Schnauzer, and a Pharaoh hound can
look.
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A
Reliable Recall
By Bill
Burt
Member of the
National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors (NADOI)
People
frequently ask me about training a recall, so here is my answer -
All of us want a dog that always comes when it is called. Not only
is it convenient, it also ensures the dog's safety. Unfortunately,
dogs aren't born knowing how to come when called. All dogs can
learn to be reliable in their recall, but they must be taught with
consistency. First you must have the dog's trust, be the pack
leader, and establish a friendship bond strong enough that he will
say, "Yes, I will work for you!"
So let's
begin. You can actually start when you first take him home. Every
time you handle your dog to pet him or feed him, you want him to
look at you, especially when you speak his name. You are laying a
good foundation for the recall when you do this. When you are in
the house with your dog, watch to see that he looks up at you when
he hears his name. You are not only ready to begin teaching the
recall; you are well on your way!
Let's get
started. Remember that your dog does not have to come to you. He
can run faster than you, and when he is outside there are many
more interesting things to do than looking at you or responding to
your call. Let's take a look at the steps involved in teaching a
reliable recall. Remember that you must be able to enforce any
command, so don't be quick to take off your lead or long line.
1. Make
your recall command very special and save it for special
occasions. In the beginning, use it only a few times per session,
and only when you are prepared to heavily reward him for coming.
Reward with treats, verbal praise, rubs, scratches, dinner, car
rides, toys - anything your dog LOVES!
2. To set
up for success make sure your dog has had a chance to exercise and
get the kinks out before you start your training session. A fenced
area or a safe area on a long lead is ideal for this. Remember,
any time he returns to you REWARD him in any appropriate fashion
and then tell him he can go play. When he moves off some distance,
use his name to get him to come to you. You can hide from him or
run away from him; always make coming to you fun. Never chase him.
Hide and seek is a fun game to play in the house; you hide and
call his name. They love the challenge of finding you, and this
little exercise can lead to tracking later on. Don't use your
special recall command yet, because you can't control the
consequences.
3. Now attach a long line to your dog's collar. The size and
length of the line will depend on the size and speed of your dog.
It can be 15 or 20 feet or longer. You may want to put a few knots
near the end of the line so that you can step on it to stop him if
necessary. Don't try to pick up the long line with your hands -
you can get a rope burn!
4. Call your dog using your special come command. Make sure he is
fairly close to you and you are pretty sure he will come. Be ready
to reward him when he gets to you. Don't make him wait around
while you fumble for the treats.
5.
Gradually begin to add distance between you and the dog. Add some
mild distractions, making sure that you can control the
consequences. If your dog comes to you, cheer him on and encourage
him. When he gets to you, praise some more and give him a treat.
then release him using your release word. But if he doesn't come
on your first command, step on the line and reel him in so that he
understands that you are in control. Praise him when he gets to
you, then release.
6. Now that
you have a good degree of reliability, you can start to increase
the level of distractions and the distance between the two of you.
If he doesn't come, have a friend step on the line while you go
over and play with another dog, or give your treat to another dog.
Now your dog realizes that you are the best game in town, and
coming to you would have been his best choice!
7. If you
have done a good job reinforcing your recall command, it should be
difficult to keep your dog from coming to you from any distance. A
dog can hear you call in a normal tone of voice at 100 yards, so
don't think you have to shout at him. If you find as you increase
the distance that the dog is more easily distracted, go back to
shorter distances, continue to reward, and admit that you may have
tried to move ahead too quickly.
8. Handlers
who are the most generous and consistent with their positive
reinforcers will be successful faster. Be patient and have fun
because if recalls aren't fun for both of you it will be harder to
progress.
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Would Your Dog Bite?
BY JAN GRIBBLE
Jan is a trainer,
instructor, and writer from New Mexico. A hard-working NADOI
member, she has served in many capacities for our organization,
and is a former editor of NADOI Notes.
The days when a parent
would ask their child what he or she did to "make the dog
bite you" are long past! The assumption now is that the dog
is always at fault when a bite occurs. Stories about
children being mauled by dogs seem to be in the news almost daily.
Despite the growing concern about dog bites, most dog owners are
poorly educated about the reasons why dogs bite and what should be
done to minimize the likelihood of their dog ever biting anyone.
The majority of dog bites occur in the dog’s home or yard, and
most bites are to family members or visitors. Children are more
than twice as likely as adults to be bitten, and boys are bitten
more often than girls. A large percentage of bites can be
attributed to the dog not being properly socialized or trained and
very frequently there is no adult supervision when children and
the dog are together. The following are a few examples of why dogs
bite and what can be done to avoid these situations:
Scenario 1: The dog is
protecting its territory from someone it perceives as an intruder.
Dogs that are chained often
become territorial and are more likely to bite children and adults
approaching them. Chaining also creates frustration in the dog, as
he is able to see the intruder, but not reach them. Do not
chain your dog. If you need to confine your dog to a kennel or
crate, make sure that children know not to stick their fingers
inside and make sure that the kennel or crate can be securely
closed or locked so that kids cannot try to get inside with the
dog. Train your dog to exhibit acceptable good manners when
visitors come to your home.
Scenario 2: The dog is
guarding an object or food from someone who is trying to take it
away.
Children should be taught
never to try to take away an object or food from a dog. If you
have a dog that growls or snaps when someone tries to take things
away from him, consult with a professional trainer.
Scenario 3: The dog is
afraid, or is fearful of being hurt or is in pain.
Dogs that have not been
properly socialized are often fearful. Socialize your puppy or dog
to anything or anyone you want him to be able to handle later on.
Provide regular veterinary care for your dog to make sure any
health problems are identified and to make sure he is not
uncomfortable or in pain. Keep him well groomed so that he doesn’t
have tangles that pull or sore spots on his skin.
Scenario 4: The dog
perceives the person as "prey." Movement and/or sound
frequently trigger this reaction.
Many years of natural
selection have enabled all canines, including our domestic dogs,
to pick out the easiest target when hunting. Young, old, or weak
animals are usually easier prey than adults. Children are often
the victims of bites because their size and behavior can elicit
this response in some dogs. Teach your children how to behave
around dogs. If the family dog gets excited and rambunctious when
playing with the kids, the supervising adult should call a time
out so that children can be stopped from running and yelling, and
the dog can be stopped from chasing. To teach your kids how to
react around strange dogs, play a game and have them practice
these behaviors: (1) when they see a loose dog, have them stop
moving, (2) tell them not to call the dog, (3) if the dog
approaches them they should stand still and "be a tree"—they
should fold their branches in by clasping their hands together and
watch their roots grow by looking down at their feet. Count to
themselves (not out loud) until the dog goes away or help comes,
(4) if the dog knocks them down, become a rock by curling up and
protecting their face and neck with their hands and arms. Children
should also be taught never to run up to or pet a dog without
asking permission first. This includes dogs belonging to friends
as well as unknown dogs. Children should be taught to never
approach or try to pet any dog behind a fence, or one that is tied
up, or in a car.
Scenario 5: The dog is
protecting her litter of puppies.
Never allow a child or
another person to handle puppies unless you are present and are
supervising closely. Remove the mother dog first and confine her
in a safe place.
Scenario 6: The person is
bitten trying to break up a fight between two or more dogs.
Don’t try to break up
dogfights with your hands. Use a water hose (if outside) or fire
extinguisher to break up the fight. Always separate the dogs first
before checking for injuries, as the fight may resume.
Scenario 7: The dog
believes it has the right to correct a person for breaking the
rules the dog has established.
Train your dog. Your dog
should never be "leader of the pack." Never hit or kick
your dog. You can teach your dog the rules and boundaries without
physical violence.
Dog owners can reduce the
likelihood of owning a dog that bites by following these 10 steps:
1. Educate yourself about
dog breeds and mixes before you buy. Not every dog is suitable for
every family.
2. Socialize early,
properly, and consistently.
3. Train your dog.
4. Confine your dog behind
a secure fence or in your house—do not allow your dog to run
loose, ever.
5. Supervise all
interactions between your dog and children.
6. Give your dog regular
veterinary care.
7. Spay or neuter your dog.
8. Leash your dog when not
on your property.
9. Don’t encourage
barking or aggressive behavior in your dog.
10. Be a responsible dog
owner!
The National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors is
interested in improving dog obedience training and instructing.
Won’t you join us? For more information on NADOI, the
requirements for membership, or the name of the NADOI instructor
nearest you, visit our web site at www.nadoi.org. You
may also
write us at: NADOI, PMB 369, 729 Grapevine Highway, Hurst,
TX. 76054-2805 (attn: Corresponding Sec). Please address
reprint
requests to the NADOI Notes editor.
Reprinted from Front & Finish, August 2005, p. 10-11
NADOI
National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors
HELEN CARIOTIS
Editor, NADOI Notes
1322 Greenstone Ln
Duncanville, TX 75137
Helen@caninecounselors.org
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Littermates –
Don’t be Tempted To Keep Two
By Norma Simpson Rust
Ideally the time to select or purchase your pup is 7 weeks,
however by 10 weeks it is imperative to separate the puppies. Over
the past twenty years I talked to people every week who had
littermates and wanted to sign up for Puppy Class with them. I felt
obligated to mention what a difficult task they were facing.
They were always amazed that I could describe their pups’
behavior without seeing them in action. Invariably one of the pups
becomes a bully, the other a wimp. Life with these pups is one big
wrestling match. They become neurotically attached to each other and
when separated neither one of them will have any confidence.
Unfortunately, I could probably count on one hand the people that
made the decision to sell or place one of the pups as a result of my
advice.
A Veterinarian signed up for Puppy Class with two pups that were
to become hunting dogs. When I saw that he had paid for two pups I
called him and discussed the problems incurred with littermate
behaviors. As it is necessary to separate them as much as possible,
I suggested that he bring one the first week and the other one the
second week, alternating through the six- week class. This would
allow each pup to be with him by itself and able to spend bonding
time and training time without competition. He stated that he had
already arranged for his wife and son to come to class to train the
second puppy. He wanted to continue with his original plan and I
reluctantly agreed to go along with it. Throughout the first class
the pup that he was handling was able to function somewhat normally.
The puppy that his wife and son were working with, however, would
only cower and shake. It was too frightened to even take a treat.
The doctor was convinced that this was because he wasn’t handling
that puppy in class. He decided to handle that puppy the next week
and have his wife work with the more confident puppy. He quickly
realized that when they exchanged puppies his presence made little
or no difference to the cowardly pup. This convinced him to make the
decision to separate them. He was uniquely dedicated to adhering to
the separation of the two puppies and had the facilities to do so at
his Clinic. He was able to take one of the pups to work with him
every day, leaving the other at home. He continued to train them and
obtained a Canine Good Citizen Title on the most confident one. He
later told me that a friend of his purchased two puppies out of this
same litter. This friend kept them in a pen in his backyard until
they were 8 or 9 months old. He then decided to start training them
but found it to be an impossible task. This shared experience
convinced each of them to never again have two puppies at the same
time. The Veterinarian, recognizing the value of puppy training
subsequently sent every owner that came into his Clinic to our Puppy
Classes.
I need to point out at this time the most wonderful thing about
Puppy Training is that all breeds are equally trainable from 8-16
weeks. It doesn’t matter what breed it is, all puppies are on equal
ground for behavior shaping and training during this period of their
lives. However, if your pup spends all of its time with other dogs
or a littermate it will bond to dogs and not people and never gain
the socialization skills it needs to function confidently in life.
An example of this occurred recently in my Puppy Class. A lady
with a fourteen-week old Boxer came to class and her puppy wouldn’t
even look at her the first night. In the Behavior Shaping segment of
the class she was showing the pup treats but it was only interested
in getting to the other pups.
We tried different treats and nothing worked.
Later in the class I asked the question, do any of you have other
dogs? At this time I caution the class to keep their pups separated
from their grown dogs and the reasons that it is so important the
puppy not be left unattended in the company of adult dogs. First and
most important of all the puppy could be seriously injured or
killed. Second, the puppy would bond to dogs and not be interested
in human interactions. The owner of the Boxer said that her puppy
was spending all of her time out in the backyard with three adult
dogs. After the problems were explained she kept the puppy separated
from the other dogs and by the next week her puppy was working for
treats and became the star of the class.
I recently had a woman in a Beginning Class with a tiny white
poodle that was about three years old. He would bite without
provocation or warning. He had grown up with his mother and a
littermate. He was very insecure and this kind of idiopathic
aggression is very unpredictable. Imagine when this happens with
large breeds like Pit Bulls or Rottweilers. How scary is that
situation? Some people do recognize the source of their dog’s
behavior once it is pointed out to them. A woman recently came into
my place of business to talk about training her male unaltered Pit
Bull that she couldn’t take for a walk because he kept aggressing
every dog he saw. As she talked, she mentioned having had a male
littermate who had already been placed in another home because of
their constant fighting. When I asked her if she realized that fear
could be the cause of this aggressive behavior I saw a light come
on, and she knew what the problem was. His behavior was purely due
to his lack of confidence. A conscientious Breeder would never place
two puppies in the same house if they had any idea of the outcome of
this action.
In conclusion, every dog, whether we intend to show in Breed,
Obedience, Agility, or simply want a good house pet will have a much
better chance of success if it is confident and outgoing. The vital
socialization that is required to insure this result is virtually
impossible to achieve if littermates are raised together.
Jae-Mar-S recommends that puppies
be at least 8 weeks old before they are removed from their litter so
they can learn "dog language and manners" from their mother and
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